Wooden cleats— my method, by Norm Wolfe    MASCF - 2006	 Norman.wolfe@verizon.net

Here is my method for making 8 inch wooden cleats. 8 inches is a good size for 1/4" and 3/8" lines, and the horns will accommodate the coiled tail. 

- Make cardboard or press board template for side view, including sheer.
- Determine spacing of mounting holes if replacing existing cleat. Otherwise,  1 3/4"o.c. is good.
- Cut hardwood block 8"long x 1 3/4"high x 1 1/4"wide (locust, elm, hickory, maple, etc).
- Draw the following lines on the block (note - these lines will be carved and sanded away).
	- centers of top, both length and width, extending the width line down sides
	- 3/16" around base (use a 3/8" pen or pencil laid flat on the table).
	– center (length) on bottom
	– shallow arc of top (use a template – mine is about 3/8" at center; r?43").
- Mark side outline of cleat on wood blank, using template.
- Mark the mounting holes on the top.
- Drill out mounting holes. I use 1/4 inch, and I pre-drill with a small drill on a drill press. Do not counter sink the holes yet - wait until the sheer is formed.
- Turn the block over and verify that the holes came through to center line of bottom. If not, consider: use anyway, fill holes with dowel and try again, or start over with another blank.
- Mark center point of rope diameter on side of the blank, then:
- Drill two  ˝" holes, which is much easier than sawing 1/2" arcs.
- Verify the  bandsaw table is set to 90 degrees - perpendicular to the blade.
- Cut out under horns, but leave about ˝ “ holding the scrap piece in place.
- On the top, mark rounding of the end of each horn. Cut with band saw, leaving marks.
- Cut series of band saw cuts to meet sheer on top. Later you will chip these away with a chisel.
- Carefully cut out the remainder of each scrap wedge under the horns.
- Screw the blank onto the end of a 2x4 to hold it in a vise while you work on it.
- Chip out arc on top, then smooth with a rasp, file, or sandpaper.
- Mark, then carve the side taper with a rasp or block plane.
- Finish rest of the cleat with a rasp, file, Stanley shur-form, Microplane & sandpaper.
- Counter-sink the mounting holes, if appropriate, for the head of your fastener.
- Prepare for finish with fine sandpaper, at least 150 grit.
- Soak in warm linseed oil, wipe & let dry. Wipe again each day for several days. 
- When mounting, use the holes in the cleat as guides to mark and drill the mounting holes.
- Use backing plate if appropriate and mount at 7-10 degrees to the direction of pull.

references:

The Marlinespike Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith, pp 89-90
Customizing Your Boat by Ian Nicholson, pp 73-74.
Craig O’Donnell’s “cheap pages”:http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/boat/matl/cleats.html
Wooden Boat magazine, #192 (Sept/Oct 2006), p27-32.

Some tool sources:
http://www.leevalley.com/
http://www.woodcraft.com/
http://www.woodworker.com/
garage and yard sales